Day 13: Waipatia to Middlemarch

Woke up this morning to the birds as usual, in particular a pair of Paradise Shelducks. They seemed to be annoyed that we were occupying the tennis courts. Tried a new kind of Cadbury Dairy Chocolate (milk chocolate on bottom with white chocolate on top) in the oatmeal to great success, made it very creamy. We headed off on our way pretty early at 0730.

It was rather cold at 8C and the sun was quickly behind some giant clouds that stretch from where we were to out of our sight. We later found out that these clouds are known as a “Taieri Pet” because they form over the Taieri River and Strath (valley). Additionally when they form it is a sign that there will be high winds through the Strath. More on that later.

We got several km in and found that someone had set out two boxes of home baked goods with a sign and an honesty box. We choose some tasty looking chocolate chip cookies for a snack and deposited a bit in the honesty box, thankful for the home made treat while on the road.

Continuing down the road we stopped at all of the information huts and signs we could find. We had all day to get to our destination, so enjoying everything was our mission. We wound our way in to the Upper Taeiri Gorge and marveled at the beauty of the gorge. Matt was lamenting that he just couldn’t capture the beauty in his camera, the human eye can just see so much more than the camera can capture.

Making our way along we went over a few more bridges, including one which still had the railroad tracks on it, they just added a pedestrian walkway to the side. Finally making our way to the final two tunnels on the trail. Amazing to see all the work that had been done by hand and lasts all of these years. Going through the tunnels it became apparent that the wind was really picking up.

It started as a tailwind, then the trail turned it came diagonal. From then on it was either diagonal or crosswinds except for 1 or 2 km of head winds. It also started gradual, but boy did it start moving. Each time the trail would leave a trench section and transition to a raised section (embankment) the gusts would just hammer us. We were routinely riding at 10-15 degree angles on our bikes to stay upright.

Finally the winds got so fast (up to 60kmh we found out after the fact) that we had to resort to varying methods of getting down the trail. Matt pioneering the sail boating method, standing on the bike with one leg on the pedal and the other leg sticking out for balance while turning the body to catch the wind and drive the bike and you forward. This had great results of up to 22kmh without any pedaling.

Some of the gusts were so strong we had to get off and walk the bikes. One particular bridge we made it over and then winds slammed into us from behind accelerating us 10kmh, we were cheering and smiling like kids. We paused for lunch inside an info hut and the winds started slowing.

Finally we hit the last 6.3km stretch to Middlemarch, which is completely straight, and finished our journey on the Otago Rail Trail. We really enjoyed the rail trial, and its smooth grades, we eyeballed the paved highway a few times, but New Zealand doesn’t appear to grade the highways at all, it is up and down every hill. The gravel and dirt of the rail trail was usually quite good and the information signs were abundant and well researched. We are a little sad to be leaving this great trail behind.

Arriving in Middlemarch we headed to the holiday park and set up tent. Then we went to the local cycle shop “Cycle Surgery” to have them check Matt’s rear wheel. Matt noticed a bent spoke on the Omarama Saddle and did some trail wheel truing but wanted someone to take a look at it. Turns out the owner of the shop used to build wheels and was able to take a look. He made a few minor tweaks and commented that our bikes were fine pieces of steel.

As a bonus he let Pam and me ride a tandem bike that he had out front, the results were comical to say the least. We were riding around Middlemarch laughing because we had no idea how to ride this tandem properly. Finally the fine folks at Cycle Surgery helped us get train tickets to Dunedin tomorrow.

Unfortunately nobody in the entire town here offers WIFI so our hopes of getting a Warmshowers host, Skype-ing with friends/family, doing anything productive were tossed out the window and we get to sit around a tiny town and wait for the train to arrive tomorrow. In the meantime the winds have started gusting again.

Matt shot a time lapse of the sunseting across the bottom of the clouds, if you are interested: http://youtu.be/KxDuUUofOdk

For the knee pain diary: Pam’s left knee is still bothering her but she didn’t any Motrin today. Matt’s right knee seems to stiffen up when not riding and get painful, but while riding there isn’t any pain, only 200mg of Mortin after lunch today. Both of us feel like our touring muscles are coming in.

Distance: 55.4km

Time: 3:45

Avg: 14.78kmh

Max: 30.37kmh

Climb: 296m I suspect this may be inflated due to weather.

 Freshly mowed field of hay

 Sculptures at one of the rest areas made of old metal pieces and tools

 You choose, smoothly graded dirt rail trail or steep windy pavement

Pam walking through one of the Otago Rail Trail tunnels

A Taieri Pet cloud formation

All done with the rail trail